The Basics of Pruning 

Pruning isn’t just about keeping plants tidy, it’s about enhancing the health, structure, and appearance of your landscape. With the right tools and a little know-how, you can promote stronger growth, reduce disease, and even increase flowering in your trees and shrubs.

Pruning effectively starts with the tools

Effective pruning starts with having the right tools for the job. Hand pruners or clippers are ideal for small branches. Bypass pruners make clean, precise cuts; ratcheted pruners offer more power for tougher stems. Loppers with strong blades are great for medium to thick branches. Hedge shears are used for shaping hedges or shearing soft-stemmed plants. Saws are designed to cut through thick, woody branches cleanly, and pole pruners help reach tall limbs without needing a ladder. Battery-powered tools are wonderful, but always watch your fingers! The quality of your tools matters. Well-made tools are a smart investment, but they must be kept clean, sharp, and lightly oiled to prevent rust and plant disease transmission.

Prune trees and shrubs with a plan

Before you start snipping, take a moment to plan—envision your landscape at maturity. Consider how tall and wide your plants will get, and how your plantings fit with each other. Once you have in mind what you’d like your garden to look like in five years, you’re ready to start pruning. 

How, and also when you prune your plants matters

Removing suckers can be done any time of the year. These energy-draining shoots steal strength from the main plant and should be cut off at the base. Thinning crowded branches increases light penetration and airflow, preventing branches from rubbing, and thus reducing pests and diseases. Use heading cuts to control the height and width of trees and bushes. Cutting just above a bud encourages growth in the direction that bud faces. If major size reduction or redirection is needed, prune back to a lateral branch. This can strengthen the structure, slow down overgrowth, and shape the plant’s appearance. 

Try to not pollard a tree which is cutting branches off to be stubs. This creates weak connected branches and doesn’t create an aesthetically pleasing plant. Evergreens respond well to heading cuts, but be strategic. Since where you cut is where growth stops, prune with the plant’s final shape in mind to avoid awkward or no regrowth areas. Always remove dead wood, and if rejuvenating, usually the oldest, widest branches are cut out. A hard and fast rule is to never prune more than one-third of a tree or bush.

Proper timing of your pruning is critical for flowering shrubs and trees. Shrubs that bloom on new wood, like Rose-of-Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus, Butterfly Bush, Buddleja davidii, or Weigela should be pruned in late winter or early spring. Spring-flowering shrubs that bloom on old wood such as lilacs, forsythia, many hydrangeas, or azaleas, should be pruned immediately after flowering. This gives them the rest of the season to grow new branches and develop next year’s flower buds or even a second bloom cycle. 

Pruning can dramatically enhance the beauty and health of your yard. With the right timing, tools, and techniques, your garden will not only look better, but it will also thrive for years to come.

Reach out to the UC Master Gardeners in your county for specific guidance with your yard pruning. 

Have a gardening question? Use the “Ask a Master Gardener” button below, or, in El Dorado County, call 530-621-5512.

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This article, written by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Phyllis Lee, originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat.